30 hours in… Reggio Emilia
Here is the new chapter of the it-ER monthly column to discover the Emilia-Romagna region!
Reggio Emilia is a charming and welcoming city off the tourist routes between Parma and Modena. It offers unforgettable experiences to live slowly just 40 minutes by train from Bologna.
You will be surrounded by the beauty of the city and by a rich historical and artistic heritage. You will try fantastic typical dishes and go shopping along the sophisticated streets and squares of the city. Here's a brief itinerary of must-see attractions!
DAY 1
During the morning
Start your journey by exploring the historic center of Reggio Emilia. Piazza Prampolini with the magnificent Municipal Palace, a building constructed in the 16th century, the Cathedral and the Tricolour Flag Hall make for a great starting point. From there, you can begin your exploration of the charming streets of the historic center. Don't miss the Basilica of San Prospero, a romanesque-style church with a spectacular six column-bearing lions in Verona marble that houses impressive frescos and an octagonal bell tower that offers a panoramic view of the city.
San Prospero
At lunch
Head to Parco del Popolo located in the city center. Here, you can enjoy a leisurely walk to charge your energy and take in the views of the lake and the landscape and, if the lunchtime approaches, you can enjoy the local speciality of the city, the erbazzone. It is a savory pie, closed on the surface, with a filling based mainly on chard and other seasonal herbs, such as spinach, and onion, lard and lots of Parmigiano Reggiano. The people of Reggio Emilia love it at any time of the day: for breakfast, as a snack in the morning or afternoon, in small squares as an aperitif accompanied by a glass of wine.
Erbazzone
In the afternoon
Dedicate the afternoon to visiting the Palazzo dei Musei. Don't expect one of those boring museums: recently renovated, they look like a «wunderkammer designed by Wes Anderson».
On the ground floor you can find Lazzaro Spallanzani's splendid collection made up of animals and fish, minerals and plants; on the first floor it is possible to see the city's history told through historical objects and a fantastic art collection, from Etruscan and Roman finds to the photos of Luigi Ghirri or to the fashion of the Estensi. Don’t miss this surprising journey!
At sunset
After finishing your visit, take a leisurely stroll and explore the city's cultural gem: the Romolo Valli Theater, a sublime 19th-century construction, a classic example of an Italian opera house. Check the schedule to discover what artistic performances are available that day.
Lose yourself in the streets of the historic center and enjoy an aperitivo: have a drink like Spritz or local wines with typical local cold cuts and cheeses.
For dinner, consider dining at a local trattoria or osteria to continue your exploration of local flavors. You can choose from one of the many local restaurants serving traditional cappelletti (literally "little hats" made of egg dough filled with a mixture of meat and cheese, usually served with capon broth), tortelli verdi or even tortelli di zucca, filled with pumpkin, Parmigiano Reggiano and crushed amaretti biscuits.
The Romolo Valli Theater
DAY 2
During the morning
It is time to head to the Collezione Maramotti and discover masterpieces of Basquiat, Bacon and Fontana. Designed as a factory, this modern art private collection opened in 2007 and now hosts a permanent collection of over 200 artworks as well as seasonal exhibitions.
At lunch
For lunch don’t miss to try gnocco fritto, another must-have. This kind of fried dumpling is the Reggio version of a recipe widespread throughout Emilia. They are made of a puff pastry prepared with simple ingredients (flour, water, yeast and salt) which is then cut into diamond-shaped pieces which are then fried in lard. The way to enjoy them is with raw ham and other cured meats and also by
adding a little cheese. Just like what happens with erbazzone, if it is good you might see people eating it cold for breakfast! Alternatively you can taste local foods and beverages like aceto balsamico on Parmigiano Reggiano or the typical desserts like biscione, zuppa inglese or torta di riso.
Via Palazzolo
In the afternoon
You can use the afternoon for shopping in this city, known for its fashion production. In addition to the usual shopping outlets, you will find clothing and accessory boutiques and other high-end shops. If you are interested in photography and contemporary art, continue your tour to the Cloisters of San Pietro, an ancient monastery that has now become an open space dedicated to art exhibitions, innovation and food.
Piazza Antonio Farnesi
We hope this itinerary is useful for planning your getaway to the city of Reggio Emilia, a welcoming city that will leave you wanting to visit again in the future.
See you next month for another awesome trip!